Guatemala travelogue #3

Dear family and friends at CR,

The temperature has been quite warm, plenty of sun and just a few clouds. It's shorts weather, but none of the guys here are wearing shorts so I'm wearing long pants also. When I walk down the streets I try to walk in the shade as I have observed the natives doing.

Guatemala appears to me to be a land of contrasts. There are Spanish-speaking people of mixed Latino/Hispanic background ("Landinos") and the colorfully dressed Mayan indigenous peoples (usually the men don't dress in native garb as the clothes take months to weave and so don't lend themselves to every day work use), and then a few Spanish-speaking people of pure Spanish descent.

Two days ago, the only gringo (Anglo) person I saw was the one when I looked in the mirror, even though I spent many hours walking around my new hometown: Ciudad Vieja, population approximately 15,000. I walked approximately 1 mile to the main market in town (very humble behind the rusting sheet-metal walls) and the Catholic Church across from the National Police station with its turreted Spanish walls. I also walked down to the river which is actually only 1-1/2 blocks away from where I live. Unfortunately a myriad of plastic bottles, bags, and other garbage adorned the banks of the river. Down the street there is a cute little laurel and palm tree-lined park with kids playing on swingsets, slides and monkey bars while the rickety buses, trucks, motorcycles and bicycles buzz by on the curvy road and over the little bridge crossing the river. Above on the hill, there are beautiful trees, but nestled below are some very humble shanties with corrugated, rusty tin siding.

Poverty is rampant here, as it is in most of the rest of the world. Although the civil war of 30+ years has been over for 10 years, the fact is that there are still many kids without parents or homes here. And it's not just the effects of the war, there are unwanted pregnancies (abortion is illegal). According to the United Nations reports quoted in a local newspaper (which only a small percentage of Guatemalans read), 56.2% of Guatemalans live below the poverty line which is approximately $2.24 per day.

No, that is not a mistake, under $3.00 per day! And 13.5% of Guatemalans live on less than $1.05 per day.

Yesterday, I spent several hours chatting with my friend Betsy (originally from Texas) and her husband Hugo to get some more tips on living as an ex-patriot here. I then went to the open-air market to do some bargaining to buy some necessities. Yes, there are lots of little stores (tiendas) and even some larger department/grocery stores, although the main one in Antigua is a bit dingy. I bought some flip-flops which say "Nike" on them, but I'm sure that they're not -- here is a little more difficult to go after trademark infringement. I bought them for approximately $3 after bargaining down from $4. (Note: it's part of the culture here to bargain in the market, and it may be construed as insulting if one doesn't ask for a lower price.) I also bought five fresh oranges for under a quarter (yes Regina, I'm going to buy some avocados soon). I also bought some 10 hangers for $1.30, besides getting some other essentials.

The bus costs about a quarter one way to travel the approximately 5 km. -- noisy, plumes of diesel smoke, old Bluebird school buses, from Georgia, USA. Date of manufacture: 1983 according to the still intact placard on the inside front panel above the windows.

The gringo's call them "chicken buses" because sometimes people bring their live animals or other products to market on the buses. The buses are often decorated outside with multicolored stripes and flashy female names like "Gilda" or "Esmeralda." Inside they're are decorated Latin American style with crucifixes and pictures of the Virgin Mary adorn the front above the dashboard. The horns on the steering column have been replaced by plastic chains or multicolored tassels hanging in front of the middle front window which the driver pulls before going around every blind intersection. It's a good thing that I got some practice riding roller coasters as a kid because he experiences a little bit similar except that the hills are not as large. Usually a young boy is hanging out of the open front door beckoning passengers to come aboard: three people to a seat during the busy times of the day. During an open stretch of the 2 lane highway, the young boy walks down the crowded aisles collecting our quetzales
(money) and giving change. Yesterday evening, the bus wasn't as crowded so I was reading a local newspaper and got into a pleasant conversation with a young man named Carlos who has been working at a restaurant for two years. We talked about volunteer work and he suggested a group of medical doctors who help children. Carlos insisted on paying for my ride. Some of the people here have such great big hearts that it's overwhelming.

Yesterday (Friday) evening, I walked with some neighbors to go watch the "procession" in which dozens of people walk through the town, performing the Catholic stations of the Cross. 24 or more people carry an incredibly huge wooden float adorned with life-size statues of Christ carrying the cross. Behind is an orchestra band which plays music in between each station of the cross. Before the procession comes, people decorate the center of streets with colored sawdust ("carpets") arranged in beautiful patterns, sometimes in the shape of flowers. Other people lay out flowers and pine needles and intricate designs.

As darkness falls, they start up the generator on wheels to light up the electric lights illuminating the entire float. I was the only gringo in sight, and was moved by the faith of these people. Some of them spend hours creating these beautiful carpets knowing full well that they will be trampled by the passing procession.

Yes, I will be sharing some photos, but haven't taken many so far. I already attract enough attention while walking the streets in this small city right now, apparently being the only gringo for miles. Plus, I wouldn't feel comfortable taking pictures of people conducting their religious ceremonies without asking permission first. Holy week is coming up though, and I have been told that the Holy Week processions in Antigua are the most elaborate and beautiful.

So far I've been incredibly healthy here with no intestinal problems at all. That's one of the things I need to pay attention to is remembering to only use my Nalgene bottle with filtered/purified water even to brush my teeth. Speaking of teeth, if you're ever in the neighborhood I have a dentist to recommend who is only 2-1/2 blocks away: Doctora Patricia Santos de Galindo. Check up, cleaning, and fluoride treatment are reasonably priced: approximately $17. She has excellent eyesight too. On an upper right molar she noticed a very small cavity and so I had to return Friday afternoon to have the cavity drilled and filled with porcelain resin. Total cost: approximately $13.18.

Note to Mom and Dad. I don't think that you have to worry about health care insurance for me here, as I said before it seems to be easiest and cheapest to just pay in cash if necessary. BTW the nearest medical doctor and clinic is one block away.

I hope you all are well.

Paz y Blessings to you all,
Guillermo (Bill) Straub

Coming soon (hopefully) in my next travelogue: about the family with whom I live: Papa Neto and his daughter Evelyn, the fiancee of my friend David.